Monday, February 24, 2020

Vogue 8844: Very 80s Blouson Jumpsuit with Asymmetrical Front and Gathered Sleeves

This jumpsuit has been haunting my dreams, and finally, it is a reality.  

This jumpsuit checked all the boxes for me:  Dropped yoke. Hyper-gathered, pleated sleeves sewn into that yoke to create maximum puffiness.  Asymmetrical front closure.  Shoulder pads.  Side pockets.  Wide belt required.  Plenty of blousing spilling over that belt.  Sleeves that cry out:  please roll me up.  Yes, this jumpsuit spoke to me!

It is, as some sewists say, a fabric hog.  Depending on fabric width, it could consume almost seven yards.  That could get pretty expensive.  So I used an old top sheet from our queen sized bed in khaki green.  I had used the bottom sheet as a test-run for Diahann Carroll's jumpsuit.  Who knew I was sleeping on jumpsuits all those years?

I found this pattern here while browsing online, and soon discovered it's pretty rare.  I could only find two, and so I got the size 10.  I needed a 12.  Which meant I had to adjust the pattern a bit to make sure it fit over my hips.  The top I wasn't concerned about, I mean look at all that fabric!  

There is a technique called slash and spread to make a pattern bigger, which I had heard of but never researched.  I continued my campaign of ignorance and decided to just go ahead "slash" the pattern right down the middle of the leg, beginning just above the waist.  The opening was 1/4 inch the front, and 1/2 inch in the back, to create a total of 1.5 inches around the hips and a bit of a bigger waist.   

I didn't want to cut up my rare 80s pattern,
 so I copied onto tracing paper

I also wanted to make sure I didn't get skimped on the "blouson" part of the jumpsuit, so I lengthened the waist by 1.5 inches.  

The pattern provided a lengthen/shorten line at the waist,
which I used to add more fabric at the critical blousing juncture

Cutting out this jumpsuit required I take over most of our communal living area for a time:

Sewing this up was fairly easy.  And the adjustments I made worked out.

The yoke required a lining.
This leftover bit of cotton shirting I had worked well.

The jumpsuit called for snaps along the front panel with a button at the top, and buttons at the cuffs.  I did snaps throughout (using a larger one at the top of the panel).  I thought buttons would interrupt the sea of fabric flowing around my body!

The Calvin Klein stretch belt is 2.5 inches wide and not vintage.

tons of gathers in the back too!

I particularly like the detachable collar, which is just a long rectangle sewn together with a flat-felled seam.

There is a 7 inch zipper, but it wasn't necessary as I could just pull this jumpsuit on without unzipping it. I might even take it out and just sew that seam shut.

Can you see there's a pleat in the sleeve TOO?

I rather liked it with the cuffs buttoned, but I wanted to see how rolled up sleeves looked:

Rolled up sleeves and knock off Ray Bans from Chinatown

I do love my new jumpsuit, I think it's both chic and comfy.

And there's nothing like a jumpsuit to put you on a pipeline straight back to the 1980s...!

Sunday, February 2, 2020

From Puffy to Palazzo with Paloma Picasso

My puffy cuffed denim pants have been refashioned.

Behold, they are now palazzo pants:

In November I made view B from this 1981 McCalls pattern:

They fit me pretty well without alterations.  I did lop off about two inches from the bottoms before I attached the buttoned cuffs, though:

It’s a cute idea, those button cuffs.  But they were TIGHT. Getting them buttoned was difficult.  Once buttoned the cuffs were secure. But they weren’t really working for me. If they were a bit looser, would the pants have hung differently?  As it was, they were spending all their time on a hanger in my closet, unfulfilled (literally). It was time to uncuff these otherwise lovely pants and get them into circulation.

When I detached the cuffs, my pants expanded into wide legged palazzo pants.  However the unfinished bottom edges were too short to hem (because of the aforementioned lopping).

So I followed this tutorial to add a DIFFERENT kind of cuff to these pants.  Basically, you make a tube of fabric, sew it to the bottom edge right sides together, fold it in half and then sew again “in the ditch.”

attach the cuff

fold it under and "stitch in the ditch"

new cuff!

This method ensures that the cuffs are very securely attached and stand up well to frequent wear.  They give added length (1.5 inches). I wanted the new cuffs to be denim as well and luckily I had just enough fabric leftover.  If I hadn’t, I could have used a contrasting fabric (a light blue and white stripe could have been nice). But I probably would have made them into wide-legged cropped pants (a look that seems to be on trend right now).

I was  thrilled to finally have an opportunity to wear a 1980s vintage Paloma Picasso belt I had been hoarding for a few months.  

I think it really works here. I love this belt, I don’t have anything else like it. The patent leather connects lengths of gold chain and closes with her signature triple X.   It was purchased from this Etsy seller.

Born in 1949 to Pablo Picasso and french painter Francoise Gilot, Paloma initially avoided going into the arts.  Eventually she was drawn to jewelry design and fabrication. Her first pieces in 1971 were met with great success.   

In 1980 she started designing jewelry for Tiffany & Co and developed her signature Xs and Os (hugs and kisses).  In 1984 she developed her fragrance, “Paloma Picasso” and in 1987 branched out into accessories including sunglasses, handbags and belts.  She is still out there, designing all kinds of goods, from bed sheets to bone china. She also still designs for Tiffany and the Paloma Picasso collection is ever popular.

Paloma’s bold and beautiful looks made her a natural model for her own creations.  I remember her print ads from the 1980s:

The shirt I’m wearing is not made by me (I wish!) nor is it vintage.  It was a gift from my husband a few years ago and carries the Pink label.  It is gorgeous and impeccably made.

I have the feeling these pants in their new incarnation will get a lot more wear.  They can be dressed up or down. And my ankles feel so incredibly FREE!

The Maddie Hayes Look

Remember Moonlighting?   I LOVED THAT SHOW!     And I loved Maddie Hayes:  her pastel silk suits, her awesome hair, her private detective a...